Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738 Yellow Gold / Mount Merapi Ref. 5738/50J-010

The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 5738/50J-010 5738/50J-010 debuted in 2026 as a limited series of fifteen pieces within the Golden Ellipse line, distinguished by a dial combining cloisonné enamel, paillonné enamel, and miniature painting on enamel. The subject is Mount Merapi on Java, rendered as an erupting volcanic landscape within the elliptical format of the Golden Ellipse. Its yellow gold case follows the collection’s established proportions derived from the golden section and measures 34.5 x 39.5 mm, with a thickness of 6.58 mm. The watch is humidity- and dust-protected only and fitted with a solid case back. On this reference, the case back is additionally engraved with a stylised representation of the volcano together with its name. As with other Rare Handcrafts Golden Ellipse references, the exterior remains restrained in form, leaving the dial as the principal identifying element. The dial depicts the eruption of Mount Merapi, its contours formed using approximately 7.6 cm of gold wire weighing about 0.04 grams. To reproduce the incandescent lava and the darker atmosphere of the eruption scene, the enameller worked with a palette of six transparent and opaque enamel colours. Gold leaf embedded beneath translucent enamel, using the paillonné technique, is used to intensify the effect of the lava flows. Miniature painting on enamel in five additional colours was then applied to render details such as the ash column darkening the sky and the glowing cloud descending the slopes. Each dial required 10 firings at a temperature of 770°C. Time is indicated by yellow gold cheveu-style hands. Inside is calibre 240, Patek Philippe’s ultra-thin self-winding movement. It measures 27.5 mm in diameter and 2.53 mm in thickness, consists of 152 parts, uses 27 jewels, and operates at 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. The movement is wound by an off-centre 22K gold mini-rotor and provides a minimum power reserve of 48 hours. Its regulating organ comprises a Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, and it bears the Patek Philippe Seal. The watch is fitted with a hand-stitched shiny dark chestnut alligator leather strap with square scales, secured by a yellow gold prong buckle shaped to echo the elliptical case.