Patek Philippe Calatrava 5177 Rose Gold / The Man with a Rose Ref. 5177R-012

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5177R-012 5177R-012 debuted in 2026 as a limited series of ten pieces, distinguished by a dial combining cloisonné enamel and flinqué enamel. Executed in rose gold, the reference depicts a mariachi figure associated with Mexico’s Day of the Dead, here shown with a rose held between the teeth and rendered within the classical Calatrava format. Its rose gold case measures 38 mm in diameter and 8.3 mm in thickness. The bezel is guilloched with the Clous de Paris, or hobnail, pattern, a decorative motif closely associated with Patek Philippe case design. The watch is water-resistant to 30 metres and fitted with a sapphire crystal case back. As with related Rare Handcrafts executions based on the 5177, the case remains restrained, leaving the dial decoration as the principal identifying feature. The dial was first hand-guilloched with a circular and geometric decoration intended to remain visible beneath translucent enamel according to the flinqué technique. The outlines of the skull and the rose in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel were then formed using approximately 68 cm of gold wire weighing about 0.46 grams. The cloisons were filled with transparent, opaque, and semi-opaque enamels in 37 colours, with extensive use of gradation and shading to model the figure and its details. Each dial required between 12 and 14 firings at temperatures ranging from 800°C to 840°C. Time is indicated by rose gold dauphine hands. Inside is calibre 240, Patek Philippe’s ultra-thin self-winding movement. It measures 27.5 mm in diameter and 2.53 mm in thickness, consists of 152 parts, uses 27 jewels, and operates at 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. The movement is wound by an off-centre 22K gold mini-rotor and provides a minimum power reserve of 48 hours. Its regulating organ comprises a Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, and it bears the Patek Philippe Seal. The watch is fitted with a hand-stitched chestnut calfskin strap with a satinated, vintage-style finish and turquoise stitching, secured by a rose gold prong buckle.